Jerry Gallwas is an American rock climber active in the 1950s during the dawn of the Golden Age of Yosemite Rock Climbing. He achieved a number of pioneering first ascents including sandstone spires in the American Southwest, and the first ascent of the Northwest Face of Half Dome with Royal Robbins and Mike Sherrick in 1957. Gallwas made his own heat-treated chrome-molybdenum steel alloy pitons, which contributed to the success of the climb. Gallwas studied chemistry at San Diego State University and spent much of his career working for scientific instrument maker Beckman Instruments, Inc. He helped to develop consensus standards for laboratory medicine, and served on the board of directors and as president of the National Committee for Clinical Laboratory Standards.
Early life
Gerald Ernst Gallwas was born in Whittier, California, the only child of Ernst and Lois Gallwas. Gallwas' father held many jobs, including farmer, iron worker, and commercial fisherman. His mother was a schoolteacher. Both parents were outdoor enthusiasts. Gallwas, a native of California, first showed an interest in climbing in junior high school. Using a Sierra Club publication drawing as a guide, he practiced rappelling on a hemp rope. In 1950, Gallwas and his family vacationed in Yosemite National Park. On the front of Best Studio, now the Ansel Adams Gallery, Gallwas spied a picture of John Salathé standing on the tip of the Lost Arrow taking a photograph of his climbing partner, Anton Nelson, as Nelson was rappelling. Gallwas imagined one day taking a photo where Salathé stood. In 1954, Gallwas fulfilled that dream by completing the 5th ascent of the spire with Wayne Merry.
Climbing experiences
In 1951, Gallwas began climbing with members of the Sierra Club from Southern California, including Royal Robbins and Don Wilson. The three became known as "The Southern Californians" to distinguish them from other California climbing groups. Gallwas described his relationship with Robbins and Wilson as teenage amateurs in tennis shoes. At Tahquitz, the three honed their skills and dreamed of big climbs to come. The vision started to become a reality when, in 1953, the three made the second ascent of the North Wall of Sentinel Rock.Robbins showed little interest in desert climbing, so Gallwas teamed with Wilson and Mark Powell to make a series of pioneering first ascents of sandstone spires in the American Southwest. These included Spider Rock, Cleopatra's Needle, and the Totem Pole. Bill Feuerer joined Gallwas, Wilson, and Powell on the Totem Pole ascent. Gallwas' final major ascent was the Northwest Face of Half Dome in the summer of 1957. On this climb, he teamed with Royal Robbins and Mike Sherrick. The Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome ascent was the first Grade VI climb in the United States.
Acquiring and manufacturing climbing gear
In the early 1950s, most American climbers imported climbing equipment from Europe or acquired it from US Army surplus. Pitons from these sources were made of mild steel that twisted and became unusable after only a few placements. Gallwas recognized the problem and was among the first to make and use heat-treated chrome-molybdenum steel alloy pitons. He patterned his pitons after John Salathé's so they could be placed hundreds of times without twisting. These improved pitons proved instrumental to the success of the first ascent of the Northwest Face of Half Dome in 1957. That same year, Yvon Chouinard began to produce and sell alloy-steel pitons. Chouinard's success with his pitons led him to establish Chouinard Equipment, Ltd, which later became Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd.
Notable ascents
1953 2nd ascent Yosemite Point Buttress.
1953 2nd ascent North Face Sentinel Rock.
1953 Palisades Traverse Thunderbolt Peak to Mount Sill via North Palisade.
