Yūki-tsumugi


Yūki-tsumugi is the Japanese craft of silk cloth practised chiefly in the vicinity of Yūki in Ibaraki Prefecture. It is designated one of the Important Intangible Cultural Properties of Japan and has also been inscribed on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

History

The traditional account traces the origin of Yūki-tsumugi to a crafthouse called Nagahatabeno Ashiginu during the reign of the tenth generation emperor Sujin. The method, developed by its founder Ooyanomikoto, immediately spread in the Yūki district and beyond. Another account identified the Muromachi era as the period when Yūki-tsumugi was developed. It is said that the feudal lord of a farmer family in the Hitachi Province sent tsumugi fabric to a governor called Kamakura Kanryo every year as a gift.
Developing from earlier silk techniques, the name Yūki-tsumugi was adopted in 1602. Weavers were invited from Ueda and the cloth, at first plain, was used as gifts for the shōgun.
In 1873, it was exhibited at the 1873 Vienna World's Fair, and became known worldwide. Currently approximately one hundred and thirty craftsmen transmit the technique in Yūki and Oyama.

Technology

floss is extracted from silkworm cocoons and spun by hand into yarn. Patterns are added by tie-dyeing, before weaving with a loom known as a jibata. The technique involves a tedious process of manually tying thousands of spots and this is based on the pattern or design. The strap around the weaver's waist enables the tension of the vertical thread to be adjusted. It can take up to fifteen days to weave enough plain fabric for an adult garment, and up to forty-five days for patterned fabric.

Safeguarding

In 1956 Yūki-tsumugi was designated one of the Important Intangible Cultural Properties of Japan. The Association for the Preservation of the Honba Yūki-tsumugi Weaving Technique was established in 1976 and helps promote and transmit the craft. Yūki Daiichi High School in Yūki has a Yūki-tsumugi club. In 2010 Yūki-tsumugi was inscribed on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.