Rakaposhi

Park

Notable features

Rakaposhi is the only mountain in the world which rises straight from beautifully cultivated fields to the height of 25,550 feet. From many places this wonderful spectacle can be viewed right from the base to the top.

Time line

• 1892 Martin Conway explores the south side of Rakaposhi.
• 1938 M. Vyvyan and R. Campbell Secord make the first reconnaissance and climb a north-western forepeak via the northwest ridge.
• 1947 Secord returns with H. W. Tilman and two Swiss climbers, Hans Gyr and Robert Kappeler; they ascend via the Gunti glacier to 5,800 m on the south-west spur.
• 1954 Cambridge University team, led by Alfred Tissières, attempts the peak via the south-west spur but only reached 6,340 m. Also, an Austro-German expedition led by Mathias Rebitsch attempted the same route.
• 1956 A British-American expedition, led by Mike Banks, reaches 7,163 m on the Southwest Ridge, above the Gunti glacier.
• 1958 The first ascent, noted above.
• 1964 An Irish expedition attempts the long and difficult Northwest Ridge.
• 1971 Karl Herrligkofer leads an attempt on the elegant but difficult North Spur.
• 1973 Herrligkofer returns to the North Spur but is again unsuccessful due to time and weather problems.
• 1979 A Polish-Pakistani expedition ascends the Northwest Ridge from the Biro Glacier.
• 1979 A Japanese expedition from Waseda University, led by Eiho Ohtani, succeeds in climbing the North Spur. Summit party: Ohtani and Matsushi Yamashita. This ascent was expedition-style, done over a period of six weeks, with 5000 m of fixed rope.
• 1984 A Canadian team achieves a semi-alpine-style ascent of the North Spur, using much less fixed rope than the Japanese team had. Summit party: Barry Blanchard, David Cheesmond, Kevin Doyle.
• 1985-1987 Various unsuccessful attempts on the long East Ridge.
• 1986 A Dutch team climbs a variation of the Northwest Ridge route.
• 1995 An ascent via the Northwest Ridge.
• 1997 An ascent via the Southwest Spur/Ridge.
• 2000 An attempt from the east side Bagrot Valley Hinercha Glacier.
• 2002 A Canadian caliber attempt period of 2 weeks from front side of base camp Hinercha glacier Bagrote valley gilgit east side.

  Climbing routes

• Southwest Spur/Ridge. Long, but not exceedingly technical. Some tricky gendarmes. Has been repeated.
• From the east side, it is short route to climb
• Northwest Ridge. Long, and more technically difficult than the Southwest Spur/Ridge. Has been repeated.
• North Spur. Shorter than the above two routes, but much more technically difficult. Has been repeated, including a semi-alpine style ascent.

Gallery