Pyreneism


Although the term "alpinism" has become synonymous with sporting achievement, pyreneism, appearing in the 19th century, distanced itself from it by considering the physical experience of the mountains as inseparable from the aesthetic and cultural emotion.
We cannot mention the word "pyreneism" without speaking about its inventor, the historian and geographer Henri Beraldi. Indeed, as the origin of the word alpinism goes back to 1876, we find the term pyreneism for the first time in the foreword of his Excursion biblio-pyrénéenne that introduces volume 1 of 100 years in the Pyrenees in 1898:
Contrary to what one may think, when the word "pyreneism" was launched by Henri Beraldi in his 7-volume authoritative book, it was not meant to stand opposite to the word "alpinism".

Pyreneism in dictionaries

The word had to wait until the last quarter of the 19th century in order to appear in the French dictionaries, always with a joint reference to alpinism considered as a sport and pyreneism as only one of its variants.
Definition and quote that refer to "Alpinism": 1876, from "alpine", and "-ism". The sport of climbing mountains. This sport is practised in the Alps - andinism, dolomitism, hymalayism, pyreneism ; ascension, scaling, climbing, mountain, rock climbing...
Today the exploration, topographic study and conquest of mountains is perhaps historically ended. This epic has been handled by a number of specialists in France and abroad. In some other countries, other words, other verbs are used to define the practice of climbing a massif, the "making a mountain", with evolutions, technical improvements that are exchanged and universalised.
If the word "alpinism", at least in France, gets detailed into andinism, himalayism,... according to the massif in which the sport is practised, the cultural value of pyreneism in itself remains singular.

Pyreneism, 100 years ago

When Henri Beraldi received The Pyrenees Prize from the Society of Geographers in Paris, he gave of "pyreneist" the following definition :
In One hundred years in the Pyrenees, one of Henri Beraldi's first studies dedicated to Ramond de Carbonnières at the end of the 18th century, the inventor of Monte Perdido, in which he gives us an idea of a pyreneism that possesses an autonomous literary reference:
This radical approach is clearly a precursor of the socio-anthropological viewpoint as is found in some recent works about mountains. As a modern example we can read that

Writing founded the pyreneism

So Henri Beraldi insists.
Henri Beraldi, in his Biblio-pyrenean excursion, places Pyrenean writings in the following manner:
Henri Beraldi at last asks the following question: "Who visits them ?"
and answers:

Pyreneist literature

In order to be acknowledged as a pyreneist, one must therefore, according to Beraldi, climb, write and feel - and necessarily publish. The subject of Beraldi's analysis in One hundred years of Pyrenees is the mass of works of all sorts that deal with travelling to the Pyrenees. The variety of visitors brings variety in works:
A striking trait among the crowd of writers cited and commented upon by Beraldi, is the geographical origin: none Pyreneans. The pyreneist authors are tourists who came to the Pyrenees for leisure, even if some settled down or tried to settle down there: Ramon, professor in Tarbes, Russell renting La Vignemale for 99 years, Schrader settling in Pau...
In 1908, Louis Le Bondidier says with irony:
Through a severe and ironic critic, Bedraldi thus distinguish among these tourist travellers and writers those who are worthy of being acknowledged as pyreneists. But in the end, those who will be most readily admitted within their ranks are explorers and cartographers. The pyreneist remains above all he who has made some mountains in the Pyrenees.

The issue of the first ascent

The first, is a question found in all the pyreneist literature, at least that of books on summits: who is the author of such summit, of such ascent track? Object of debates, indeed of quarrels.
The very nature of the Pyrenees, a mid-altitude massif practically devoid of icy zones, makes most summits accessible, at least in summer. The matter of their first ascent therefore is of limited interest: occupied since neolithic times by herds and their shepherds, by Pyrenean chamois hunters and by smugglers, these mountains were roamed upon at all times. And the summits, from the view point of their inhabitants, neither more nor less interesting than the pastures: their animals, especially ovines, would sometimes get lost up to the highest altitudes, and these places would occasionally be used as hunting posts. Of course, some conquests have almost certainly been accomplished by tourists, travellers and other pyreneists. But the pyreneists themselves sometimes acknowledge it: there already was a sign, a turret, a trace on that summit that one had just conquered. And Ramond de Carbonnières' guides were led to the summit of the Monte Perdido by a Spanish shepherd...
The first ascent is sometimes claimed by the one who calls himself its author: many times Beraldi adds, following the word "first", "by a tourist". The ascent has value, indeed has existence, only when it has been told in writing. Thus it is the writer-tourist who will be acknowledged as its author, and not the mountain locals or the guides who led the ascent.

Names of the summits

The other big question that from the 19th century onward stirs the world of tourists-writers, those who will be called pyreneists, est the denomination of mountains and summits. A conquest indeed implies naming its object.
Mountain inhabitants, the Pyreneans, have long named the huts, pastures, forests, lakes, passes, sometimes the crests separating two valleys, in short all useful places. They ignored the summits as uninteresting places offhand. But each of these places was named within the environment - and the language, Pyrenean Occitan, Aragonese, Catalan, Basque - of the local community whose people walked them and used them. Hence the identical or near-identical toponyms from one valley to the next one, designating different places. Crests, mountains that divide territories, most often carry two or more names: those given by the mountain locals of each slope who were using those.
Tourists, pyreneists, aimed at naming their mountains: one cannot talk but of that which is identifiable. The names of summits were therefore asked to the guides and shepherds, people who did not name these impediments of the land. The summits became "peak of...". And some summits got two names, depending on their author. Following long polemics, the pyreneists ended this disorder with toponymics commissions that baptised the summits with official names which were subsequently used by cartographers.
The multiplication of tourists and their appetite for conquest led to an abundance of names: one came to name anything on a crest that would somewhat differ from the rest. Hence, for example, the proliferation of the three-thousanders. And, finally, attributing to summits the names of pyreneists as a tribute from their peers, sometimes during their lifetime.

20th century pyreneism

The 20th century, following in Henri Beraldi's wake, keeps developing a pyreneist subjectivity linked with the post-exploration and post-conquest. Although at the end of the 19th century another type of conquest already begins with the search for new trails, we witness a new form of conquest based notably on an important technical evolution, European at first, then under the influence of North America. Thus is set, similarly to the "difficulty alpinism", a "difficulty pyreneism".

The difficulty Pyreneism

Pyreneism, in this meaning, is distinct from alpinism only by the mountain range in which it is practised.
Difficulty pyreneism was not born in the 20th century. Its father is certainly Henri Brulle who, as early as 1878, generalises the use of lifeline and short ice pick during his ascents. With Bazillac, de Monts, d'Astorg, led by guides Célestin Passet and François Bernat-Salles, he achieves many firsts, the north face of Monte Perdido, le corridor of Gaube at the Vignemale,...
Undeniably the pyreneist enterprise, the adventure, the attraction of the unknown and of the conquest of first order summits, the exploration of new massifs, shrunk as time passed. Likewise, the picturesque having been largely popularised through albums, drawings, paintings, reaching its apex with photography, as for alpinism there needed to conceive a pyreneism with new practices: new routes, north faces, winter pyreneism, solo pyreneism even, which is more akin to conquering one's own self. The creation of the Groupe Pyrénéiste de Haute-Montagne on July 11, 1933, was one of the founding acts of that contemporary "difficulty pyreneism" of which its actors Ollivier, Mailly, Cazalet, Henri barrio, Arlaud and many others used the most modern progression techniques of the time, developed by the Eastern Alpine climbers. The post-war period also saw a new generation of climbers getting to grips with all still-untouched faces, all winter runs.
At last, all crests and faces vanquished, the ephemeral ice cascades became the challenge at the end of the 20th century. Practices also evolve: retakes of old routes in free climbing or free solo climbing, including on winter routes.
This "difficulty pyreneism" has also engendered many writers who illustrate the pyreneist passion.

Looking for pyreneism

The idea by which there exists a pyreneist specificity has always been subjected to debate.
In the line of Beraldi one may find typically pyreneist arguments:
But the question, laid by the editor of the "Dictionnaire des Pyrénées", brought about two opposite answers.