Paddar


Paddar, or Padar, is a remote valley in Kishtwar district of Jammu and Kashmir, northern India. It covers the whole northeast portion of Kishtwar district bordering Zanskar on the north, Pangi, Himachal Pradesh on the East and Marwah-Wadwan on the West. The valley is known for its sapphire mines. It lies in the Greater Himalayas, along the Chenab River basin. It is among the most remote regions of Jammu and Kashmir. There are various sub valleys in Paddar like Machail, Ghandari, Kabban, Ongai, Bhuzunu, Barnaj, Bhuzas, Kijai Nallah, and Dharlang, among others.

History

No concrete material is available about the early history of Paddar. However, it is said that there was no one in Paddar till the 8th century. It was just a meadow. The people from nearby areas such as Bhaderwah, Lahaul and Ladakh were attracted to see the grazing lands. They used to come here to graze their cattle. With the passage of time, they settled there permanently.
Paddar was under Guge rule, during the 10th century. It remained under their rule till the 14th century. After the 14th century, Paddar got separated from Googay rule and divided into smaller parts. These parts were ruled, by smaller Petty Ranas. The Ranas of Paddar were Rajputs, Every village or every two or three villages used to have a Rana who often fought against the next village Rana. The area was inhabited mostly by Thakur community. People were serpent worshipers but they observed other Hindu rites and rituals as well. One can see temples of different Nagdevtas or Serpent Gods which are adorned with wood carvings of snakes of many forms. Besides Hindus there are also Muslims and Buddhists. The buddhists are spread in the upper reaches of the Machail, Kaban and Gandhari valley and in the Town of Gulabgarh. The first Muslim came to Paddar during the period of Shantar Kantar Rana from Chamba who used to make the pots of soil. The descendants of those Muslims are still living at Atholi and kijai.
In the middle of the 17th century A.D Chattar Singh, the king of Chamba also attacked Paddar. He first conquered Pangi from where he advanced with about 200 men to Paddar and annexed it. He constructed a fort after his name as well. The local Ranas could not face the onslaught of Raja Chattar Singh. They accepted his suzerainty and became his tributaries and began to work as his Kardars. The impact of Chatter Singh's conquest lasted long and Paddar area continued to be the part of Chamba up to 1836. From Chattar Singhs period onward Paddar remained comfortably under the kings of Chamba for five to six generations.
Under the leadership of Ratnu Thakur the people of Paddar attacked Zanskar in 1820 or 1825. He made it his tributary. The Bhot Raja agreed to pay Rs. 1000, besides musk bags and other things annually as Nazar to the Chamba Raja.
As soon as General Zorawar Singh reached Kishtwar he heard of an uprising in Ladakh and hence left for Ladakh via Zanskar. From this route Leh is 275 miles from Kishtwar, which is the shortest route between these two places. Zanskar area falls en route Bhot Nullah. The army of Gen. Zorawar Singh entered Zanskar through Paddar. This time wazir Lakhpat Rai Padyar, who was a trusted officer of Gulab Singh, also joined Zorawar Singh in the second attack on Ladakh. After conquering Ladakh a part of the Army was sent to Kargil and Zanskar under the command of Wazir Lakhpat Rai and Col. Mehta Basti Ram as Zanskar was not under them till then. After conquering Zanskar, the army returned to Jammu through Paddar. 30 soldiers of Dogra army were kept in Chattar Garh fort to keep in touch with the soldiers fortified in Zanskar. During this period a rebellion broke out in Zánskar and the Dogra soldiers present there were massacred.On hearing the news Ratnu Thakur, who was the highest employee of Chamba government instigated people and caught hold of Dogra soldiers. Some of them were made prisoners and sent to Chamba. This made Gen. Zorawar Singh mad with rage. He intended to attack paddar.
In 1836 General Zorawar Singh along with 3000 soldiers, attacked Paddar from Zanskar through Bhot Nullah route. To escape from the onslaught frightened Ratnu demolished the bridge on Chenab. For this reason, the Dogra army had to wait for three months. With the help of some local peasants they made a ropeway bridge and crossed the Bhot Nullah and led a furious attack on Chattar Garh. The whole town was set on fire. It was heaps of stone all around. Many people were hanged some were disfigured. A new fort was built in place of Chattar Garh. An officer along with a few soldiers was stationed there for the watch of the fort and Paddar became a part of dogra state. Ratnu was arrested and sent to Jammu, where he remained under detentions for three to four years. Subsequently, he was released and granted an estate in Kishtwar. Those days Paddar was under the Tehsildar of Bhardarwah.
After conquering Paddar Gen, Zorawar Singh went to Zanskar via Umasi La about 17,370 feet from sea-level to quell the rebellion there. He succeeded in establishing peace. In 1837 a fierce rebellion broke out in Leh and Gen. Zorawar Singh covered the journey from Kishtwar to Leh in about ten days. In May 1838 Zorawar Singh got a fort built at Chisoti on his way back to Kishtwar.
In 1845 during the rule of Maharaja Gulab Singh, both Paddar and Zanskar were given the status of tehsil. Later on, when Leh got district status, Zanskar was merged with Leh and Paddar was merged with Kishtwar tehsil during the period of Maharaja Ranbir Singh. In 1963, Paddar was given the status of block by the government of Jammu and Kashmir. Now, it enjoys the status of a tehsil. Recently Paddar has been granted the status of Sub-Division with the Sub-Divisional headquarters at Gulabgarh. It now comprises two tehsils: Atholi and Machail.

Religion

Hindu 18,021 83.63%, Buddhist 2,038 9.46%, Muslim 1,473 6.84%, Sikh 10 0.05%, Christian4 0.02%

Villages

Some of the notable festivals celebrated in Paddar are :