Laksa


Laksa is a spicy noodle soup popular in the Peranakan cuisine of Southeast Asia. Laksa consists of thick wheat noodles or rice vermicelli with chicken, prawn or fish, served in spicy soup based on either rich and spicy curry coconut milk or on sour asam. Laksa is found in Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, and Southern Thailand.

Origin

The name comes from the Hokkien luak sua, meaning "spicy sand", which refers to the taste and texture of ground dried prawns. However some etymologists believe the word laksa comes from an ancient Persian word for "noodles".
There are various theories about the origins of laksa. One theory connected laksa to the 15th century Ming Chinese naval expeditions led by Zheng He, whose armada navigated Maritime Southeast Asia. Overseas Chinese migrants had settled in various parts of Maritime Southeast Asia, long before Zheng He's expedition. However, it was after this that the number of Chinese migrants and traders significantly increased. These Chinese men intermarried into the local populations, and together they formed mixed-race communities called the Peranakans or Straits Chinese.
In Malaysia, the dish is believed to have been introduced by Chinese immigrants in Malacca.
In Singapore, the dish is believed to have been created after interaction between the Peranakans with the local Singaporeans.
In Indonesia, the dish is believed to have been born from the Chinese coastal settlements and the mixing of cultures between Chinese merchants and the local cooking practices. Historians believe laksa is a dish that was born from actual intermarriage. In early coastal pecinan in maritime Southeast Asia, it was only Chinese men that ventured abroad out from China to trade. When settling down in the new town, these Chinese traders and sailors set out to find local wives, and these women began incorporating local spices and coconut milk into Chinese noodle soup served to their husbands. This creates the hybrid Chinese-local culture called Peranakan culture. As Peranakan Chinese communities have blended their ancestors' culture with local culture, Peranakan communities in different places now demonstrate diversity according to the local flavour.
Because laksa has different varieties across the region, it is difficult to pinpoint the exact origin of the dish. Nevertheless, numbers of laksa recipes has been developed along the trade channels of Southeast Asia—where the ports of Penang, Medan, Malacca, Singapore, Palembang, and Batavia are the major stops along the historic spice route. The intensive trade links among these port cities enables exchanges of ideas to take place, including sharing recipes.

Popularity

Various recipes of laksas have gained popularity in Malaysia, Singapore, and Indonesia; and subsequently international recognition. Initially in July 2011, CNN Travel ranked Penang Asam Laksa 7th out of the 50 most delicious foods in the world. Its rank however, fell to number 26th after CNN held an online poll by 35,000 people, published in September 2011. Singaporean Curry Laksa on the other hand ranked in number 44th.
In Indonesia, laksa is a traditional comfort food; the spicy warm noodle soup is much appreciated during cold rainy days. However, its popularity is somewhat overshadowed by soto, a similar hearty warm soup dish, which is often consumed with rice instead of noodles. In modern households, it is common practice to mix and match the recipes of laksas; if traditional laksa noodle is not available, Japanese udon noodles might be used instead.
Laksa is a popular dish in Darwin, Australia, and the first Darwin International Laksa Festival was held in November 2019.

Types

The type of laksa is based upon the soup base employed in its recipe; either rich and savoury coconut milk, fresh and sour asam, or the combination of the two. There are three basic types of laksa: curry laksa, asam laksa, and other variant that can be identified as either curry or asam laksa. Curry laksa is a coconut milk curry soup with noodles, while asam laksa is a sour, most often tamarind-based, soup with noodles. Thick rice noodles also known as laksa noodles are most commonly used, although thin rice vermicelli are also common, and some recipes might create their own rice noodle from scratch. Some variants might use other types of noodles; Johor laksa for example uses spaghetti, while a fusion recipe might use Japanese udon noodle.

Curry laksa

Curry laksa is a coconut-based curry soup. The main ingredients for most versions of curry laksa include bean curd puffs, fish sticks, shrimp, and cockles. Some vendors may sell chicken laksa. Laksa is commonly served with a spoonful of sambal chilli paste and garnished with Vietnamese coriander, or "laksa leaf, which is known in Malay as daun kesum.
This is usually known as curry mee in Penang rather than curry laksa, due to the different kind of noodles used. Curry mee in Penang uses congealed pork blood, a delicacy to the Malaysian Chinese community.
The term "curry laksa" is more commonly used in Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. Laksa is quite popular in Singapore, and curry laksa or nyonya laksa can be simply served as plain laksa, with just noodles and gravy, or with additional ingredients. Singaporean curry laksa ranked in number 44th of CNN World's 50 best foods. Recently, several modern twist of curry laksa has been developed, such as laksa yong tau foo which is stuffed tofu laksa, and a premium upgrade of lobster laksa.
In Indonesia, most laksa variants are coconut-milk-based soups and thus can be categorised as curry laksa. Common spices include turmeric, coriander, candlenut, lemongrass, garlic, shallot, and pepper cooked in coconut milk. Widely available daun kemangi is commonly used instead of daun kesum. Bihun or thin rice vermicelli is most commonly used noodle instead of thick rice noodle, and some recipe might add slices of ketupat or lontong rice cake. Bogor laksa uses ground oncom into its soup.
Variants of curry laksa include:
laksa and banana leaf otak-otak from Singapore
laksa, topped with yellow tofu

from Palembang
Asam laksa is a sour, fish and tamarind-based soup. Penang asam laksa listed at number 26 on "World's 50 most delicious foods" compiled by CNN Go in 2011. Asam is the Malay word for any ingredient that makes a dish taste sour. Laksa typically uses asam keping, known as kokum in the English speaking world, which is a type of dried slices of sour mangosteens. The modern Malay spelling is asam, though the spelling assam is still frequently used.
The main ingredients for asam laksa include shredded fish, normally kembung, and finely sliced vegetables including cucumber, onions, red chillies, pineapple, lettuce, common mint, daun kesum, and pink bunga kantan. Asam laksa is normally served with either thick rice noodles or thin rice noodles and topped off with petis udang or hae ko, a thick sweet prawn-shrimp paste.
Variants of asam laksa include:
Several variants might combines both coconut milk and tamarind, fish, chicken, and prawn, thus can be identified as either curry or asam laksa.
The general differences between curry laksa, asam laksa, and Sarawak laksa are as follows:
Curry laksaAsam laksaSarawak laksa
Coconut milk is usedNo coconut milk usedCoconut milk is used
Curry-like soup Fish paste soup, tastes sour due to tamarind Red curry-like soup
Except for bean sprouts, no other vegetable is usedPineapple, shredded cucumber, raw onions may be usedExcept for bean sprouts and fresh coriander as garnish, no other vegetable is used.
Bean curd puff is usedNo bean curd puff usedNo bean curd puff used
Served with thick or thin rice vermicelli. Occasionally served with yellow mee.Served with thick or thin rice vermicelli Served with thin rice vermicelli only
Hard-boiled egg may be addedNo hard-boiled egg addedSliced omelette is used
Slices of fish cake and either prawns or chicken are usedFish, usually kembung, is usedWhole prawns and serrated chickens are used
Variants
  • Laksa lemak
  • Katong laksa
  • Nyonya laksa
  • Johor laksa
Variants
  • Asam Laksa
  • Penang laksa
  • VariantsLaksa is simply referred to or ordered at a restaurant as laksa or asam laksa. By default, laksa means the standard curry laksa while asam laksa refers to the standard Penang version. If a restaurant serves a non-standard version, the restaurant will qualify the laksa by the version being sold. For example, a restaurant serving Katong laksa will list Katong laksa on the menu.

    Similar dishes

    • Mie Aceh, spicy noodle dish from Aceh
    • Mie celor, savoury noodle dish from Palembang
    • Soto mie, an Indonesian noodle soup dish
    • Mohinga, a Burmese fish noodle soup
    • Ohn no khao swè, Burmese version of coconut chicken noodle soup
    • Khao soi, a northern Thai noodle dish
    • Khow suey, a noodle dish originally from the Shan state in Burma
    • Khao poon, a dish in Laos also known as Lao laksa

      Laksa products

    Laksa paste to cook laksa can be purchased from supermarkets. Laksa flavoured instant noodles are also available at supermarkets.

    Malaysian Tourism Board controversy

    In 2009, as part of a national food branding exercise, Malaysian Minister of Tourism Ng Yen Yen attempted to claim ownership for regional dishes such as Laksa, Hainanese Chicken Rice, and Bak Kut Teh, claiming that others have "hijacked their dishes". This led to discontent with its regional neighbours. Ng later clarified that she was misquoted on her intention to patent the foods, and that a study on the origins of the foods would be conducted "and an apology conveyed if it was wrongly claimed." To date, the results of the study have not been made public.

    Recipes


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