The is a handicraft and textile signature art tradition of the tribal community of Kutch District in Gujarat, India. This embroidery with its rich designs has made a notable contribution to the Indian embroidery traditions. The embroidery, practiced normally by women is generally done on fabrics of cotton, in the form of a net using cotton or silk threads. In certain patterns, it is also crafted over silk and satin. The types of stitches adopted are “square chain, double buttonhole, pattern darning, running stitch, satin and straight stitches”. The signature effect of the colorful embroidery sparkles when small mirrors called abhla are sewn over the geometrically shaped designs. Depending on the tribal sub groups of Rabari, Garasia Jat, and Mutava involved with this craft work many hand embroidered ethnic styles have evolved. These six styles: Suf, khaarek, paako, Rabari, Garasia Jat, and Mutava. This embroidery product of Kutch has been registered for protection under the List ofGeographical indication of the Trade Related Intellectual Property Rights agreement. In March 2013, it was listed as "Kutch Embroidery" under the GI Act 1999 of the Government of India with registration confirmed by the Controller General of Patents Designs and Trademarks under Class 24 Textile and Textile Goods, and its logo registered in November 2015 vide application number 509 for the dated 8 January 2012.
History of the Kutch Embroidery is traced to the 16th and 17th centuries when people migrated from the countries such as Afghanistan, Greece, Germany, Iran and Iraq to Gujarat. It is also said that cobblers known as Mochis were trained in this art form by the Muslim sufi saints of Sindh. The art form became a vocation for women of Kutch not only to meet their own clothing requirements but also to make a living, in view of severe dry and very hot conditions of Kutch. It became a generational art with the skills taught from mother to daughter. They embroidered clothes for festive occasions and to decorate deities and to create a source of income.
Production procedure
Embroidered products are of 16 types known by specific names as: Ahir is type done by peasants of Ahir community with designs of animals and birds done with chain stitch with hooked needles, herringbone stitch and fixed with small mirrors known as 'abhla', practiced by women during the lean season Aari type of embroidery is done by cobblers with intricate chain stitch patterned on designs of the Mughals. Gotauvn or Gotany which includes Chekan, Chopad, Katri and Mukko types, is done by Muslim pastoral people of 11 villages, using several intricate patterns of stitches, expensive silk fabrics, metallic threads and mirrors. Jat-Garasia and Jat-Fakirani are done by the two Jat communities, is a cross stitch product with intensive use of mirrors of small size adopting "satin stitch with radiating circles of a couched stitch". Kambira and Khudi-Tebha generally adopted in quilts is embroidered by the Harijan people of the Banni grasslandson the border with the Great Rann. Kharek practiced by the Sodha, Rajput and Megwar people is usually in the shape of a set of bars created by adopting "black double running stitch and satin stitch". Neran meaning "eye brows" is a unique style which adopts buttonhole stitch in the shape of a curve. Pakko done by the Sodha, Rajput and Megwar people, which is akin to the Ahir style with dominance of geometric designs with an embossed appearance and is embroidered with close knitting with buttonhole stitches. Rabari made by Rabaris of the Giri region, with prominent patterns adopted from mythology are made in several shapes embroidered with "square chain interlaced with buttonhole" stitches fixed with mirrors, it is unlike another any other embroidery of Kutch. Khadi material in maroon colour is used as the fabric to make door hangings, canopies, wall decorations, etc. It is also said that Rabaris of Kutch reportedly migrated from Sindh in the 14th century and brought their traditional style with them and developed a regional style which was a composite style unlike other types then in vogue in Kutch. The mochi embroidery style with "chin stitch and parrot circle" patterns influenced their styles. Soof meaning "neat and clean" is made in geometric designs dominated by a "chevron design" known as 'leher' or 'waves' which gives the product a unique pattern which is an innovation. of Kutch. The best quality embroidery is known as "aari" which was done earlier for the royal family and well to do families.
