Greco (grape)


Greco is an Italian wine grape that may be of Greek origin. The name relates to both white ' and black ' grape varieties. While there is more land area dedicated to Greco nero, the Greco bianco is the grape most commonly referred to by "Greco". In the Campania region it is used to produce the Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita wine Greco di Tufo. In Calabria, it is used to make the Denominazione di Origine Controllata wine Greco di Bianco. The name "Greco" is sometimes used as a synonym for several varieties of supposed Greek origins-most notably Trebbiano.

History

The ancestor of the Greco vine may have been brought to southern Italy more than 2,500 years ago by ancient Greek settlers. Historians and Italian growers have speculated that the grape may have been a blending component in the ancient Roman "cult wines" of Falernian and Aminean. As the grape vine has propagated throughout Italy, the name "Greco" has been ascribed to several varieties that may have historically been linked to Greece. Ampelographers disagree about whether or Greco is a single variety with several clones or an agglomeration of several varieties under the umbrella name of "Greco". There is also disagreement about whether any of the Italian so-called "Greek vines" are currently being cultivated in Greece.
After World War II, the fate of Greco as well as that of many southern Italian grape varieties were in peril. The wartime devastation of vineyards as well as the mass migration of Italian vine growers from agriculture to urban industries in the cities and abroad, ushered in a period of general decline for viticulture in the region. As plantings declined and vineyards were ripped up, many varieties were on the verge of extinction. The efforts of family winemakers and heritage winemaking projects such as the Villa dei Misteri project headed by Piero Mastroberardino, helped sustain the existence of the Greco vine in southern Italy.

Recent discoveries

In the early 21st century, DNA profiling confirmed that some plantings in Italy described as "Greco" are genetically identical to the grape variety Asprinio.

Greco bianco

The Greco bianco vine tends to mature very late in the grapevine's growing season and is prone to the viticultural hazards of downy and powdery mildew. Ampelographers distinguish the vine based on its characteristic "winged" clusters. After veraison the grapes turn a golden-grey color. The phenolic compounds in the grape contribute to the wine's characteristically deep color. Greco bianco wines are noted for their aromatic qualities with some wine experts, such as Jancis Robinson, describing the wines as being vaguely similar to Viognier. Some aromas commonly associated with the grape include peaches and fresh green foliage. With age, Greco wines can develop more herbal notes.
Greco bianco is most widely found in southern Italy where it is featured in several DOCs. In 2006, it numbered less than 1,000 hectares of the varieties planted. In Calabria, a specific clone of Greco bianco is used to produce the sweet dessert wine Greco di Bianco, made in a partial passito style from grapes that have been partially dried after harvest. On the island of Capri, Greco is usually blended with Biancolella and Falanghina to produce dry-style wines. In Apulia, it is a permitted blend component in the Gravina DOC. In Campania, it is featured in the DOCG wine of Greco di Tufo produced around the town of Tufo, Provincia di Avellino. It is also permitted in Lacryma Christi produced on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius.

DOCG regions

There are two DOCG regions that Greco plays a primary role in; however, the grape variety is a permitted component in several DOCs in southern Italy. The Greco di Tufo DOCG region of Campania is located north of the Fiano di Avellino DOCG and includes the town of Tufo and seven other hillside communities. The region was elevated to a DOCG in 2003. Despite being a third of the size of the Fiano di Avellino DOCG, Greco di Tufo is the Campania region's largest producer of DOC quality wine. The vineyard soils of the region are derived from tuff, a rock formed from volcanic ash—after which the town of Tufo itself is named. All DOCG wines from the region must contain at least 85% Greco with Coda di Volpe usually filling in the remaining blend. According to Master of Wine Mary Ewing-Mulligan, Greco di Tufo wines are usually ready to drink 3–4 years after harvest and have the aging potential to continue to develop well for 10–12 years. A sparkling spumante style is also permitted.
The Greco di Bianco DOC region of Calabria is located around the city of Bianco in the "toe" of Italy on the Ionian coast. This is a dessert-style wine made from partially dried grapes that must maintain a minimum alcohol level of 17%. The wine has a characteristically dark amber color with aromas of citrus and herbal notes. Harvest yields are restricted to a maximum of 10 tonnes per hectare. According to wine expert Peter Saunders, Greco di Bianco is often described as one of the best Italian dessert wines produced in the country.
Other DOCs that are permitted to use Greco bianco include:
The red wine variety of Greco, Greco nero, is the most widely planted Greco variety in Italy with an estimated 3,200 hectares planted. Most Greco nero is found in the Calabria region where it is often blended with Gaglioppo.
Among the DOCs that are permitted to use Greco nero:
Among the synonyms that have been associated with both white and black varieties of Greco are Balsamina Bianca, Biancame, Greco Biondello, Greco Castellano, Greco delle Torre, Greco del Vesuvio, Greco di Gerace, Greco di Napoli, Greco di Tufo, Greco Maceratino, Greco Moneccio, Grecula, Grecu Niuru, Grieco, Gieco, Grecau, Montecchiese, Morbidella, Ragusano Bianco, Sambiase, and Verdicchio near.