Elvira Leonardi Bouyeure


Elvira Leonardi Bouyeure, known as Biki, the granddaughter of composer Giacomo Puccini, was a notable Italian fashion designer and couturier of the post-war period based in Milan. Her clients were mainly connected to the La Scala opera theatre. Biki is known as the creator of the style for Maria Callas who she first met in 1951 at a dinner party organized by Wally Toscanini.

Biography

Bouyeure was born in Milan on 1 June 1906. She studied at A. Manzoni linguistic school where she also learned music and singing. Bouyeure travelled to Paris many times and decided to learn fashion. After a few years apprenticeship she created a line of French-style underwear named "Domina".
On 5 May 1936 she opened her atelier in Milano in 1936 on via Senato catering mostly to La Scala opera theatre actors. Her long-term cooperation with Maria Callas started in 1954.
Biki designed a plain black evening cape in wool crepe for Callas that she wore for the 1970 opening of the Teatro alla Scala season in Milan, a paisley coat in 1971, and also a floor-length dress with silk satin collar which she wore in 1973 for the farewell concert at the Royal Festival Hall in London.
She worked with Italian fashion photographer Johnny Moncada in 1967 and 1968 for the Linea Italiana magazine.
Her atelier was located in Via Monte Napoleone.
Bouyeure died on 24 February 1999.

Personal life

Biki's name was given to her as a child by her step grandfather Puccini who called her Bicchi. She married art expert Robert Bouyeure in 1936. They had a daughter named Roberta, born in 1937.