The company was founded in 1946 by Drew Stevenson as the Langholm Dyeing and Finishing Company Limited, dyeing wool yarn to order. His eldest son David, until recently the chairman of the EWM Group, opened the first retail store in Randolph Place, Edinburgh, in 1970. In 1972, the first English store was opened in Carlisle. Having been owned by several equity holdings over the previous decade the company was bought out by the newly formed EWM Group and was then subject to a secondary, management takeover in 2002, led by the current chief executive, Phillip Day. In 2011, the group bought Jane Norman out of administration, having bought Ponden Mills, and merged it with 80 stores bought from the collapsed Rosebys home furnishings store to create Ponden Home. On 22 February 2012, it was announced that EWM had purchased the Peacocks clothing retail brand along with 388 stores and concessions, its headquarters and logistics functions. Although over 200 stores were not acquired at this time, the chain has embarked on a programme of expansion since. In 2016 EWM purchased the Austin Reed brand, the British fashion retailer founded in 1900, EWM placed Jane Norman into administration in June 2014, but retained the brand and stock to sell as an online-only business. In May 2017, it was understood that EWM had bought the Jaeger brand and debt from its former owner, Better Capital. In May 2017, EWM opened the first Days, in what had been the BHS premises in Guildhall Square, Carmarthen, which will house Peacocks, Edinburgh Woollen Mill, Ponden Home, Jane Norman, and Austin Reed brands. This is intended to be the first of a chain of Days department stores. In May 2020, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association in a letter to Philip Day had warned that they would blacklist EWM for non-payment of suppliers in Bangladesh and not returning their calls. The COVID-19 pandemic has resulted in orders being cancelled or retailers asking for heavy discounts which led to workers being terminated.
Operations
The Edinburgh Woollen Mill Ltd is now the holding company for three core brands: Edinburgh Woollen Mill, Jane Norman and Peacocks. As of spring 2016, the group operates close to a thousand stores in the UK, comprising:
265 Edinburgh Woollen Mill stores
479 Peacocks stores
107 Ponden Home stores
88 tourist shops and visitor centres trading under various fascias
27 destination sites combining all the Group's concepts
The Peacocks brand is also franchised internationally. In April 2017 EWM made a substantial loan to Carlisle United Football Club. This was seen by some to be a move aimed at eventually taking full control of the club.