The park covers and is among the largest national parks in the eastern United States. As of 2010, of this was designated as Recommended Wilderness. Elevation varies from a low of to a high of. The park runs along the Cumberland Mountains, stretching about with an average width of. The park straddles a tri-state area encompassing land from Kentucky, Tennessee and Virginia. It includes the area of the Wilderness Road running through the passage across the Cumberland Plateau and through the Cumberland Gap, an important geological feature that facilitated travel for American settlers and Native Americans. It includes 24 known cave features ranging in size from around to more than in length. There are a number of large cliff systems in the park, the most prominent of which is the cliffs of White Rocks, located in the eastern portion of the area. At the northeastern end, the park sits adjacent to the Sillalah Creek Wildlife Management Area and the Martin's Fork Wildlife Management Area and State Natural Area. The climate of the area is mild, with hot and humid summers and mild winters, and an average annual temperature of.
Hydrology
The park contains over of streams. With the exception of one, Little Yellow Creek, all of these originate from within the park, with those to the north of the main ridge flowing into the Cumberland River, and those to the south flowing into the Powell River. Overall water quality in the park is good to fair, with some areas falling below recommended pH levels, likely due to natural causes, and others exceeding recommended levels of microorganisms, possibly due to contamination from campgrounds.
Ecology
The area of the park is 97% forested and contains 970 species of vascular plants, 90 of which are classified as sensitive or rare species. These include 108 non-native species of plants, and 31 considered to be highly aggressive invasive plants. The park is home to at least 145 species of birds, and 40 species of mammals, including the near-threatened bat, Myotis sodalis. The streams in the park house around 27 species of fish, including Chrosomus cumberlandensis, federally listed as an endangered species. Additionally, surveys have identified at least 36 species of reptiles and amphibians. Ecosystems in the park are threatened by a number of insect infestations from non-native pest species, including Dendroctonus frontalis, and Adelges tsugae. The species Agrilus planipennis and Lymantria dispar dispar also represent imminent threats from surrounding areas.
History
Business leaders from Middlesboro, Kentucky meeting in Cincinnati for the Appalachian Logging Conference, proposed a Lincoln National Park, centered around Fern Lake as early as 1922. However, two bills introduced into the Kentucky State Legislature the following year by State Congressman John Robison both failed. Later attempts in 1929 sought to create memorials for Civil War battles fought in the area, and also failed. In 1938, the National Park Service agreed to support a park if the lands were donated to form one, and the Cumberland Gap National Historical Park Association was created, sparking more unsuccessful attempts in Kentucky, and then passage of a bill in Virginia in 1939 that paved the way for federal authorization. The park was established on June 11, 1940 by Franklin Roosevelt in order to "commemorate the story of the first doorway of the west". It was authorized by Congress to occupy an area not to exceed. The surrounding states purchased and deeded the land of the park to the federal government in 1955, and the official opening took place in 1959. In 1992 the park purchased the area surrounding Gap Cave, which had previously been privately owned. By 1996, the park had undergone some $280 million in improvements, including construction of the Cumberland Gap Tunnel. Toward the southern end of the park lies Fern Lake, created by an earthen dam in 1890, which provides water to the nearby town of Middlesboro, Kentucky. The area surrounding the lake was purchased by the park in four phases following the passage of the Fern Lake Conservation and Recreation Act, increasing the overall size of the park by 20%:
Phases I and II, of land purchased in 2008 from Ataya Hardwoods by The Trust for Public Land and transferred to the park
Phase III, of land purchased in 2009 from Molpus Woodlands Group
Phase IV, of land purchased in 2009 from Molpus Woodlands Group
As of 2010 there were plans to acquire an additional of land surrounding the lake. As of 2018 the park had an estimated $15 million in deferred maintenance.
Accommodations
The park includes a visitor's center, renovated in 2004, which features a museum and auditorium, providing exhibits on the areas cultural and natural history, as well as book and gift shops. Guided tours of the Hensley Settlement and Gap Cave are provided from the tourist center. Around from the center, along the Skyland Road, lies the Pinnacle Overlook, which, at an elevation of, overlooks the gap and the surrounding country. There are of hiking trails, ranging from shorter routes such as the Sugar Run Trail, to the Ridge Trail, which spans the park and reaches an elevation of. The nearby Wilderness Road Campground includes 160 campsites. No hunting is permitted within the park. Tri-State Peak is located in the park, and is accessible by trail. A marker designating the tripoint of the states of Kentucky, Tennessee, and Virginia, is located at the peak of the mountain.
Tourism
The park saw 737,547 visitors in 2017, according to statistics by the National Park Service. According to one federal study, in 2013 visitor spending amounted to $46 million in nearby communities, supporting 639 local jobs. Peak rates of visitation normally occur during the seasons of spring, summer and fall.
Recognition
In 2017 the park received the Keeper of the Light Award from the Southeast Region of the National Park Service, which recognizes excellence in education. In 2016 the United States Mint released a commemorative quarter as part of the America the Beautiful series honoring the park.