Changabang Changabang is a mountain in the Garhwal Himalaya of Uttarakhand , India . It is part of a group of peaks that form the northeast wall of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary . It is a particularly steep and rocky peak , and all routes on it are serious undertakings. It has been the site of many significant climbs. It does not have a high topographic prominence , being slightly lower than its near neighbor Kalanka to the east, and lower than many other peaks in the immediate vicinity, but its steep rocky profile has made it a more attractive destination than its elevation would indicate.First ascent Changabang was first climbed on 4 June 1974 by an expedition led by Lt. Col Balwant Sandhu and Chris Bonington , via the Southeast Face , leading to the East Ridge . This is the easiest route on the mountain, and one of the few that is primarily a snow/ice climb, as opposed to a rock climb with some snow, ice, or mixed terrain.Notable ascents Other notable ascents include some of the hardest climbs ever done in the Himalaya. 1976 Southwest Ridge , Naoki Toda, Akira Kobayashi , Masahide Aida, Harumi Ohno, Yukio Asano and Teruyoshi Karino all reached the summit after 33 days of effort. 1976 West Wall , Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker , summit reached 15 October 1976 . The route took over 25 days to ascend, and their use of big wall climbing techniques to overcome the serious, sustained difficulties was revolutionary. Boardman's account of the ascent , The Shining Mountain , won the 1979 John Llewellyn Rhys Prize for literature. 1978 Direct South Face , Wojciech Kurtyka , Krzysztof Żurek, Alex MacIntyre and John Porter, summit reached 27 September 1978. 1981 South Ridge , Ugo Manera , Lino Castiglia first summit via the South Ridge. 1997 North Face , Andy Cave and Brendan Murphy with Mick Fowler and Steve Sustad made the first ascent of the North Face of Changabang, a 1,600 m route involving steep, sustained ice, mixed, and rock climbing. 1998 The Lightning Route , Carlos Buhler and a team of Russians established a demanding new route on the north face: On 12 October 2006, two Mexican climbers, Andrés Delgado and Alfonso de la Parra, summited Changabang by a new route. While descending, they encountered a storm and were officially reported missing by the Indian Mountaineering Federation on 15 October, when they last made a contact via satellite phone . An initial rescue effort was made despite harsh weather conditions, but on 8 November 2006 the search was canceled due to continued harsh weather.
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