Action Directe (climb)


Action Directe is a famously difficult sport climb in the Frankenjura, Germany, first ascended by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991.
It is generally recognized as the world's first route, and it is currently still considered by many to be something of a benchmark for that grade, even though Güllich actually gave it a UIAA grade of XI, which converts to a French grade between 8c+ and 9a. It is also famous for its style, involving long dynamic moves off single-finger pockets, and a dynamic start into a two finger pocket.
Wolfgang Güllich invented the campus board to train the very specific strength and power needed for the Frankenjura area.

History

bolted this line in the 80's with a start from the neighboring line to the right. It is named after the French terror group Action directe. The name of the route is French and pronounced . The first ascent was by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991, who climbed the route using a 16 move sequence and a more direct start with a dynamic jump into a two-finger pocket. It took him 11 days of working the problem to redpoint it. Dai Koyamada used a different sequence with only 11 moves.
Mélissa Le Nevé topped the first female ascent in May, 2020

Ascents

The repeat ascents were by: